Post #48: African Safari Here We Come

Having described our Planning for an African Safari in Blog Post #47, Nana continues in this blog post with her travelogue of our fabulous photographic safari trip for our multi-generational family of five. The post is quite full of photos, but very thoughtfully chosen from the myriad taken to best illustrate our family’s eye-popping adventure.

We happily united at the Johannesburg airport, having traveled on lengthy itineraries from opposite worldly directions. Nana and Papa departed from their Florida residence, while grandson Cooper and his parents came from their Fiji home.

After an overnight catch-up at the airport City Lodge, Nana had left her readers in blog post #47 as we were about to take a morning flight from South Africa to Botswana for our initial safari destination on June 16, 2024. The first leg of our day-long itinerary took us to Maun, Botswana, a jumping off point for tourism in the Okavango Delta.

After clearing Botswana customs and immigration, we were met at luggage collection by a Wilderness representative who helped handle our bag transfers, even remarking that we were “traveling light.” Well, wasn’t that what we were directed to do? wondered Nana, having obediently followed our Frontiers travel agency’s info on small aircraft restrictions on baggage type, size and weight, despite Nana’s typically schlepper preference fill a larger travel bag.

Relieving us of our small duffels, the rep directed us to the charming nearby Duck Cafe to have a light bite as we awaited the departure of our Wilderness Air Botswana light plane.

Curiously, our plane’s registration number visibly displayed on its side was A2-GNU (see photo above). Although gnu is an alternative name for a wildebeest, we didn’t find out if the the registration was intentional or randomly assigned.

Excitement built as we flew over the Okavango Delta and could see some distant aerial views of elephants and hippos. Landing on a small rustic airstrip, we were met by our safari guide Lucas in an open-air vehicle to transport us to Wilderness Tubu Tree lodge for our three-night stay.

We were warmly welcomed with drinks, lodge tour, introduction to the newly-renovated, luxury tented accommodations on raised platforms accessed by boardwalk, and a most-excellent invitation: to take our first guided safari that late afternoon.

We hurriedly unpacked our belongings and re-packed gear for safari: backpacks, zoom cameras, binoculars, water bottles, selection of clothing layers for riding in the open jeep as the warm afternoon would evolve into chilly sunset. Guide Lucas was primed to provide us with the optimal safari experience as he wended through unmarked jeep paths in the Jao Reserve of the Okavango Delta, although the area was dryer than usual for June due to a drought to the north from which the water flowed.

Although our first stops were not big game, we were intrigued by views we would see repeatedly: large termite mounds and the commonly-called sausage tree whose nickname is obvious from the photo.

Our first big excitement was a close-up viewing of an elephant family group, who were just our initial introduction to extensive elephant viewing in Botswana to follow.

Lucas was intent on starting our Okavango safari experience with a bang, criss-crossing sandy land rover trails in search of a holy grail of animal sightings. In contact with other lodge vehicles, Lucas eventually heard about an animal he did not want us to miss, reversing terrain and rushing bumpily to a knock-your-socks off view: a handsome leopard in a tree! We were all in awe! Stacy took the close-up photo with her stronger zoom camera than Nana’s.

We concluded a perfect first safari afternoon with sundowner drinks and snacks in the delta, where we even surprised a passing hyena.

After a brief clean-up, we were escorted by flashlight-wielding staff at night, due to the possibility of encountering wild animals, along the boardwalk to the main lodge for dinner. After enjoying one of their delicious meals, we were early to bed and early to rise, the safari camp theme to see animals at their most active. Leaving the next morning when still dark, we started off wearing all our clothing layers, to be peeled off as the sun rose and the delta heated. Lucas provided well-appreciated hot water bottles for our open-air excursion.

Our morning photo ops were fantastic: ostrich, zebra, impala, giraffes, and more elephants!

And that was all before our waterside morning stretch and tea, where we had views of hippos and crocs. We were all wowed, especially Cooper.

And there was more to come … our afternoon safari brought sightings of eagle, warthog, Cape buffalo, more giraffes and elephants, and another stunning safari sundown.

We enthusiastically arose early again for our second morning at Tubu Tree, warmly dressed for the chilly start.

In addition to viewing more elephant families and towering handsome giraffes, we had up-close and personal views of kudu and warthogs. “Pumba,” Cooper announced upon sighting a warthog, recalling the name of the endearingly humorous warthog in the Lion King film.

By the time we noticed some animals, they might turn and run, exposing their hindquarters. This became an especially comic observation to Cooper and his dad.

Whereas Nana particularly preferred photographically capturing wild animals from front or side views, Jason was all over the boyish idea of creating a photo book of just their rear ends.

Due to having a distinctive black “M” mark on their backsides and also being the common prey of large wild cats, the ubiquitous impala, we learned, are often referred to as the McDonalds of Africa. So upon noticing impala, Cooper regularly shouted “McDonalds!”

For our morning tea, Guide Lucas found us an optimal parking spot, open enough for clear visibility, bushes for necessary privacy relief, and viewing of a distant herd of elephants. Cooper was excited to locate some large feathers of a bird that likely fell prey, but sad not to be able to keep them. Per safari rules, no animal parts, even sun-bleached animal bones, may be taken from the preserve. At least we had photos of Cooper and his temporary feather collection.

Mid-day break at Tubu Tree included lunch, rest period, and relaxing at our lovely lodge.

Some local women were selling handmade woven creations with meaningful designs, which offered Stacy and I an artful shoppertunity. Unfortunately, Nana can’t remember the exact meaning of her purchase but thinks it might be related to birds though, not particularly obvious.

On our late day safari, Lucas once again crisscrossed the delta on the hunt for a special find. Once hearing excitement from another guide, Lucas bumpily sped us to their Land Rover where a leopard had been sighted. It was fortunately still light enough to photograph at dusk.

After dinner the staff delivered a special anniversary treat to our luxury tent for all of us to pre-celebrate on the night before our June 19th anniversary. Despite being tired from a very long day, we still enjoyed the bed-time champagne and chocolate-dipped strawberries.

Although we were leaving the next morning, there was still time for one more very early Okavango safari foray. Having been on prior safari trips, Nana and Papa opted out, deciding to delay breakfast and take time to pack for departure, needing to squish everything back in our way-too small duffels. The gung-ho Fiji family enthusiastically went on a last Okavango safari, from which Cooper came back bursting with excitement. Words tumbled out of his mouth and his body quivered as he told of witnessing two female lions stalking and trying to separate a baby giraffe from his herd. Cooper called the scenario “a battle royale,” relayed his mom. By the time they needed to return to the lodge, the lions had not made a kill but were still on the hunt. Lucas suspected they might stalk all day until the young giraffe was too worn out to flee. So Nana was not sure whether she was disappointed to have missed the hunt or not. No doubt it would have been thrilling, but also disturbing to witness the African reality of the young giraffe’s threatened life.

Stacy’s action-packed photo:

By mid-morning Lucas drove us back to the small airstrip where we had originally arrived to await our departing light aircraft. Elephants sauntered proprietarily across the landing area as we said our good-byes to Lucas and the Okavango Delta.

Then up, up and away we flew.

Our plane made one stop at another small airstrip to pick up a few more passengers. I only mention this because I was jealous of their larger size duffels which were unceremoniously loaded on the plane. Once again Nana wondered why our size requirements were much more limited, or why we had to adhere to them so strictly? Admittedly, this was schlepper Nana’s personal complaint, but Papa Jesse did agree.

We flew to a large modern airport in Kasane, where we were met and driven to our next luxury Botswana lodge. At Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero, the staff warmly welcomed us in song and dance, encouraging Cooper to join them.

After our long travel day, we were happy to be offered a relaxing lunch on the patio, just the first of all their delicious meals. Then we were introduced to our well-appointed accommodations at this chic safari lodge, situated in a peaceful, river-view setting in the northeastern corner of Botswana, bordering the elephant rich Chobe National Park.

We were enthusiastic to continue the day with our first safari into the preserve, hopping into the Land Rover with our knowledgeable guide Tim.

Upon entering the park, Tim wended his way along the river bank where we delightfully saw many elephant family groups, interspersed with sightings of water buffalo, crocodiles, hippos, monkeys and and a variety of water birds.

We delightfully ogled the many groups of elephants with their young returning from their afternoon excursions of riverside drinking and bathing.

And as we ended our first Chobe safari drive, we were delighted to view lingering elephants artistically silhouetted by the flaming sunset over the river.

Returning to the lodge we were re-welcomed by the staff with cleansing towels and warming hot chocolate or coffee with the adult option of adding Amarula, a cream liqueur made from the fruit of the African marula tree. Nana went for the Amarula.

We concluded with a delicious lodge dinner, afterwards tumbling into the large comfortable mosquito-netted beds (although we rarely saw a mosquito during their “winter” season) with visions of African vistas dancing in our heads.

What a most wonderful way for Nana and Papa to have celebrated our 53rd anniversary on June 19, 2024.

Early rising the next morning, we were greeted in the lodge with a warming fireplace and ample varied breakfast offerings, after which we loaded into the Land Rover set up by Tim for the chilly start with fleece-lined ponchos.

All early organization paid off, as this animal-packed safari was crowned by the king of the beasts, with multiple lion sightings.

We also loved viewing exotic kudo, the males sporting magnificent antlers.

Bouncing around in open air jeeps definitely generated hearty appetites, for which our lodge chefs found delectable ways to satiate, like make your own pizza for lunch, on the open patio as the sunny day had warmed significantly. Cooper had changed into the cute wild animal inspired T-shirt that Nana had bought for him at the Tubu Tree gift shop

Chef Jason approved.

In addition to traditional land roving safaris during our Chilwero Sanctuary stay, Tim guided us on two delightful safari cruises on the Chobe River, the first one during late afternoon, culminating at sunset.

Cooper photos, credit to Stacy.

The second cruise on the Chobe River included a sumptuous luncheon.

J

 Gently traveling and floating on the river, we closely approached large sunning crocs and grazing hippo families as well as viewing an abundance of waterside elephant groups.

Pointing out the Red Lechwe, an antelope indigenous to Botswana which is commonly found in watery marshes, Tim told us, “They’re semi-aquatic.

“I’m semi-aquatic!” immediately retorted our water-loving, tropical island-living grandson. Touché Cooper!

In addition to the safaris, life at the lodge was relaxing and enjoyable. Cooper played games on the lush lawn with Papa or his mom, challenged his dad to chess in the main lodge, and chatted with friendly staff.  One evening we were treated to a pre-supper musical serenade by Botswana locals. There had also been singing entertainment by the melodious staff at a Tubu Tree barbecue dinner

Our three-night stay at Chobe Chilwero was just as spectacular, educational and eye-opening as our Okavango Delta safari initiation to Botswana. However, this would conclude our marvelous time in Botswana, which exceeded our safari expectations, as we would next be driven to the Victoria Falls area of Zimbabwe.

So as not to prolong the length and timing of this blog publication, for which some readers have been patiently waiting, Nana decided to post this Botswana portion of our overall safari trip. Stay tuned for Nana’s next blog post about the conclusion of our trip in Zimbabwe: at Victoria Falls, the Zambezi National Park, Old Drift Lodge, and safari cruising the Zambezi River.